Building a PC

W0AHD00D

W0AHD00D

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Hey everyone, looking to make a big investment into this PC. Im looking for some advice before I actually purchase to see if I can trim something here or there.
To get an idea for what I'm trying achieve; I want to stream, and have it as smooth as possible. Do some light video editing. Also a little later one down the road dip back into Photoshop and animation. I want to be able to run games as crisp as possible while not breaking the budget I already have set.
What I'm looking at right now through newegg, my total comes out to be $1530.27, See below

http://imgur.com/a/x0MXj

Edit: I guess I wouldn't really need the sound card right away or anything (right?) Maybe something later on down the road when I decide if I want to make my lo-fi beats, or for the stream possibly..
 
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Ahhhh Newegg....f'kin Sadistic Happy Candy store of LED mood lighting...pretty colored Graphics cards...power supplies that make you feel omnipotent...liquid cooling systems that make you question logic...Mew mew had done the Same thing back on SCHT. Gaming was being choppy and youtube vids were meh in speed. So she stumbled onto Newegg with a $400-600 budget in mind...By time she had written out her desired Dream PC...close to $3000!??? Ended up getting a premade DELL PC with all the latest and greatest goodies already in it for $500. Never Been Happier! what you have listed looks like something someone could run a CAREER from their home for LIFE! XD! Little overkill, but at the end of the night after doing your animations and lil' PSO playing...when you shut it off and watch/hear it wind down...you can sigh with pride that YOU Built what makes You HAPPY! <3
 
use pcpartpicker

edit: here's something i threw together

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/98BKgL

If you live close to a Microcenter store, you can save an additional $60ish dollars by purchasing the CPU/Mobo in store.
  • I couldn't find your exact case, so I just manually input the price.
  • PCs from the past 10 years don't need sound cards. Built in mobo DAC is usually bearable enough. If you really need high quality audio, invest in a USBDAC or an interface. (I personally use this one.) Although, a DAC is pretty useless if you don't have decent headphones/studio monitors. If you're going to be making "lo-fi" beats, definitely do not spend $180 on a sound card or even bother buying a USBDAC. What's the point of spending money on good audio equipment just to purposefully make lo-fi music?
  • The graphics card is $30 cheaper because it's not factory-OCed and is missing RGB LEDs (?). You can get it to these levels of OC yourself.
  • The keyboard you picked is a rubber dome keyboard. It'll feel really shitty and mushy. It's made to *look* like all the mechanical gaming keyboards but you'll just end up disappointed. Invest in a true mechanical keyboard if you want a better typing experience.
  • Upped HDD to 2tb for $7 extra
  • 550w is more than enough for the whole system

Also, if you wanna be doing all those things in your title post, you should consider upping the RAM to 16 gigs. And if you don't wanna deal with OCing, switching to B270/locked CPU will be cheaper too
 
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astallasalion said:
use pcpartpicker

edit: here's something i threw together

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/98BKgL

If you live close to a Microcenter store, you can save an additional $60ish dollars by purchasing the CPU/Mobo in store.
  • I couldn't find your exact case, so I just manually input the price.
  • PCs from the past 10 years don't need sound cards. Built in mobo DAC is usually bearable enough. If you really need high quality audio, invest in a USBDAC or an interface. (I personally use this one.) Although, a DAC is pretty useless if you don't have decent headphones/studio monitors. If you're going to be making "lo-fi" beats, definitely do not spend $180 on a sound card or even bother buying a USBDAC. What's the point of spending money on good audio equipment just to purposefully make lo-fi music?
  • The graphics card is $30 cheaper because it's not factory-OCed and is missing RGB LEDs (?). You can get it to these levels of OC yourself.
  • The keyboard you picked is a rubber dome keyboard. It'll feel really shitty and mushy. It's made to *look* like all the mechanical gaming keyboards but you'll just end up disappointed. Invest in a true mechanical keyboard if you want a better typing experience.
  • Upped HDD to 2tb for $7 extra
  • 550w is more than enough for the whole system

Also, if you wanna be doing all those things in your title post, you should consider upping the RAM to 16 gigs. And if you don't wanna deal with OCing, switching to B270/locked CPU will be cheaper too
Click to expand...

Your advice is greatly appreciated, my friend.
I took your advice and upped the RAM to 16 gigs. I'm only familiar with G.Skill, so my choice seems limited. Would I go with the 2400 or 3200? You're right though, I was a bit over zealous on what I'd actually need there. Being lo-fi, it would be pointless. So that was trimmed off. The keyboard itself was just a quick pick, like the case. Just something to have a foundation to build on. However I was not aware of the quality of that keyboard, thanks for the tip. I would definitely have been disappointed. I'm looking at 430w right now, so I believe that should be fine.

I also threw in the OS just to get an idea of final price.
Here's what I got; https://pcpartpicker.com/list/sJcXGf

Certainly a neat site, and very helpful when comparing other components.
 
I have the same case in white, and the same PSU. Definitely don't skimp on the PSU. The case is simple and good looking imo - you get what you pay for.

That ram seems expensive to me, but I managed to cheap out on my 16GB 2800 for $50 via Newegg pricing error haha
 
Np, always happy to help people figuring out the best builds for their money/needs. You can PM me or find me on discord if you need anything else

You can save on the OS by obtaining it through a student license (if you're in university and your school offers it) or by other means. Unless you truly have $90 to blow on an OS, doing some research online can save you a lot of money

TBH RAM clock speed doesn't matter much in real world benchmarks. In the most optimized games it's like an FPS increase of 7-10% in the absolute best case scenarios. Idk about how it affects rendering, but it shouldn't be too much because it's much more dependent on your CPU. If the prices aren't too different, go for the higher clocked RAM.

The biggest OEM of mechanical switches is Cherry. They make a variety of different types of switches; each with a different tactile feeling. I'd go to a computer hardware store to test them out. Here's a good guide. The more expensive, reliable boards will use Cherry switches. At the upper-end of mechkeyboard fandom there are $300-$400 boards with fancier switches.

There are many "offbrand" mechanical keyboards nowadays at the same price of the keyboard you linked, even. I currently personally use two keyboards with offbrand switches (Razer BW Chroma and Magicforce 68; both use "oetemu" switches) and they feel completely fine to me. I have owned multiple boards with "official" Cherry MX switches and I honestly can't tell the difference, but by no means am I an aficionado.

You can save even more money by downgrading the powersupply to a smaller wattage, non-modular one. Modular just means that you can remove extra unused cables from your powersupply to declutter the inside of your case. Personally, having gone with non-modular PSU's for my first 2 builds, I find that a modular PSU is a must-have now.
 
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moya said:
I have the same case in white, and the same PSU. Definitely don't skimp on the PSU. The case is simple and good looking imo - you get what you pay for.

That ram seems expensive to me, but I managed to cheap out on my 16GB 2800 for $50 via Newegg pricing error haha
Click to expand...
Jealous, that's over half the price. D:

astallasalion said:
Np, always happy to help people figuring out the best builds for their money/needs. You can PM me or find me on discord if you need anything else

You can save on the OS by obtaining it through a student license (if you're in university and your school offers it) or by other means. Unless you truly have $90 to blow on an OS, doing some research online can save you a lot of money

TBH RAM clock speed doesn't matter much in real world benchmarks. In the most optimized games it's like an FPS increase of 7-10% in the absolute best case scenarios. Idk about how it affects rendering, but it shouldn't be too much because it's much more dependent on your CPU. If the prices aren't too different, go for the higher clocked RAM.

The biggest OEM of mechanical switches is Cherry. They make a variety of different types of switches; each with a different tactile feeling. I'd go to a computer hardware store to test them out. Here's a good guide. The more expensive, reliable boards will use Cherry switches. At the upper-end of mechkeyboard fandom there are $300-$400 boards with fancier switches.

There are many "offbrand" mechanical keyboards nowadays at the same price of the keyboard you linked, even. I currently personally use two keyboards with offbrand switches (Razer BW Chroma and Magicforce 68; both use "oetemu" switches) and they feel completely fine to me. I have owned multiple boards with "official" Cherry MX switches and I honestly can't tell the difference, but by no means am I an aficionado.

You can save even more money by downgrading the powersupply to a smaller wattage, non-modular one. Modular just means that you can remove extra unused cables from your powersupply to declutter the inside of your case. Personally, having gone with non-modular PSU's for my first 2 builds, I find that a modular PSU is a must-have now.
Click to expand...

I'll see what I can do about the OS, I have an idea of what you're getting at lol. Okay so, the 3200 and 2400 are almost identical in price so I'll just go with the 3200 and call it a deal. Yeah, rendering should be calculated by mainly CPU so I believe you're right there.

I'll take a look into the brands you mentioned and try to find something I like. I'm really not took picky as long as the quality is still there. Hmm, the price increase to a full modular PSU really isn't that bad (roughly $30-$40 more). I'm probably going to switch that around.
 
So building a PC is a lot cheaper if you have a month to buy parts. Newegg drops prices on certain items daily. So you can save a few hundred if your patient. I build pc's for people for fun, so if you want specific help please feel free to PM me.
 
What's your budget? $1500? What games will you be playing? I love building/overclocking PCs and have been doing so for about 17 years now. Currently on the road so ill look deeper into your proposed build later tonight or tomorrow. Also if you're going to stream new AAA games Id suggest getting an Intel i7 or an AMD R5/R7 over that i5



And about RAM speed, I always suggest getting the fastest you can afford. Fast paced open world games like GTA V and Forza Horizon 3 absolutely love Ram bandwidth. Fallout 4 does as well.
 
conenubi701 said:
What's your budget? $1500? What games will you be playing? I love building/overclocking PCs and have been doing so for about 17 years now. Currently on the road so ill look deeper into your proposed build later tonight or tomorrow. Also if you're going to stream new AAA games Id suggest getting an Intel i7 or an AMD R5/R7 over that i5



And about RAM speed, I always suggest getting the fastest you can afford. Fast paced open world games like GTA V and Forza Horizon 3 absolutely love Ram bandwidth. Fallout 4 does as well.
Click to expand...

Ideally, I wouldn't like to spend over 1500. So yeah, that's the budget and trimming down from that leaves me with more room for a new monitor, (Not a must-have right now) and a keyboard+mouse.

Some games played would be Paragon (Crisp graphics), Overwatch, CS GO, BF(Eh, maybe), Any RPG, etc. I really didn't want to, but you're not the first to tell me to go with the i7. It's a little over $100 more, but I believe it'll be a safe choice to go with.
 
Personally I'd ditch the HDD and get a bigger capacity M.2 drive. If that's not an option currently perhaps consider using the motherboards on board sound card to begin with or save your beans until you can get a Samsung Evo Polaris M.2 drive. The 3000+ read/write speeds make for the best PC experience. I used to have mixed SSD and HDD builds and the HDD spinning up at random times would slow down my PC intermittently and what started as a niggle became a full blown annoyance.

Ed
 
Also, if you're considering a new monitor I'd suggest staying away from super wide screens. This is just from my personal experience with a Z35 but a lot of games don't support 21:9 and you wind up with messed up looking games that don't utilise the full screen. There are mods for some games, but not all/most. Most games do support in game 21:9 but cut scenes and menus remain at 16:9.

GYSNC is a great feature monitor mind you. I've got through a lot of monitors over the years. Using a TV remained the most immersive, but I wanted to get a higher refresh rate monitor, and it really does pay off.

Ed
 
Hope this isn't too late, but I second considering a Ryzen processor, especially if your budget is so limited and you intend to stream and edit. It's definitely more for your money right now. The R5 1600 is doing well, has a good stock cooler, and seems to overclock to comparable levels as the R5 1600X for cheaper.

And you really need to know if and what you will overclock, because you may need to reconsider your PSU. If not, then again, you probably don't need (and may be wasting money with) a K series processor and Z series mobo, but it's worth mentioning than you can still OC with a mid-tier B350 with Ryzen.

Things are weird now, but core count is almost certainly going to become more relevant for games, and Intel is slated to finally release mainstream hexa-core processors in the near future. You should also consider how long you expect this build to be in use and how feasible it will be for you to change the CPU and possibly the motherboard if needed as well, especially if you choose Intel right now.
 
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